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Restaurant Review:
Mirabelle Tavern
Mirabelle Tavern
150 Main Street
Stony Brook
631-751-0555
threevillageinn.com
COST:
$$$
AMBIENCE:
Very good
SERVICE:
Very good
ESSENTIALS:
Dinner every day, 5
to 9 p.m. Monday
through Thursday and
till 10 p.m. Friday
and Saturday; 4 to 9
p.m. Sunday. Lunch,
Monday through
Saturday, noon to 4
p.m. Sunday brunch,
11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Breakfast, Monday
through Friday 7 to
10 a.m.; Saturday
and Sunday 8 a.m. to
10 p.m. Weekend
reservations
recommended.
American Express,
Discover,
MasterCard, Visa
accepted. Ramp at
entrance.
Eating at Mirabelle
Tavern is easy: Come
in the morning, stay
all day. Guy Reuge's
opening act at the
Three Village Inn
encourages leisure.
The star chef, who
closed the original
Mirabelle last year,
jump-starts
appetites and
invigorates the Inn.
Reuge expects to
revive haute
Mirabelle here, too,
in a separate space.
But the casual
Tavern already makes
the Inn a
destination anew,
now for contemporary
American cuisine
with a French twist
defined by Reuge's
signature precision.
The room also is
brighter and airier;
the service, better.
Just get rid of
those ripped,
brown-paper place
mats.
THE BEST
Start with the
creamy egg en
cocotte, a baked
delight, especially
when paired with
recklessly rich
braised pork belly;
or the elemental,
flaky quiche
Lorraine.
Alternatives: warm
asparagus with tangy
sauce Gribiche; and
smoked-and-fresh
salmon rillettes on
toasted brioche. The
addictive little
basket of zucchini
fritters with
chickpea fries
arrives with a
red-pepper aioli
that the Inn could
sell by the jar.
Next, maybe the
romaine-watercress
salad, with
matchsticks of apple
and flag-waving
American blue
cheese. There's
well-seasoned
chicken potpie for
some refined
homeyness; and
Reuge's perfectly
seared, rosy duck
breast that's no
canard. The
pulled-pork sandwich
with cabbage-apple
slaw, Kobe-style
beef sliders,
charcuterie
selection, and
grilled lamb chops
with eggplant caviar
all are recommended.
Likewise the
excellent grilled
shell steak with
honey-roasted
shallots and bracing
beef bourguignonne.
For dessert,
caramel-sea salt ice
cream overshadows
the top-billed
chocolate mousse
cake. Try the
ginger-almond tart -
a memory of
Mirabelle.
THE REST
Skippable
flammkuchen, a
smoked-bacon, onion
and crème
fraîche-capped
thin-crust pizza;
the garlic sausage;
and bland crab cake.
Fish-and-chips made
with branzino?
THE BOTTOM
LINE
Spring awakening.
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